I'm trying to upgrade and grab a nice pair of selvedge denim. Any suggestions, and what is your ideal measurements in respect to leg opening?
I typically suggest APC New Cure or Baldwin Henley, but because I was so blown away by photos of the Pure Blue Japan xx-011s after six months and a hot soak (pictured above), I have to take the time to suggest that you check them out. I have no first hand experience with PBJ, but I have read some amazing reviews (those douchers over at SuFu are good for something, sometimes, I guess). As per leg opening, I prefer purchasing jeans with a 15” opening and having them tapered to 14.5”.
since you're on the shorter side as well, do/did you get your denim hemmed?
That being said, I’m not a denimhead, so I don’t care too much about chain stitching and all that jazz (though I find it imperative to have my jeans altered). I once asked a salesperson at APC who they recommend, and they sent me to G&G Cleaners on Grand Street. Low and behold, despite looking like the Four-Five-Six Laundromat that serves as a front to ISIS headquarters, they did excellent work. Or you can just go to any old quality tailor. Or you can go to Kaihara in Hiroshima (I once overhead a stoned twenty-something in the East Village claim that real denimheads take $1800 flights to alter their jeans—it’s kind of like their Mecca).
Can we talk about this 6+ inch cuff I am seeing way to often? I know you have discussed appropriate cuffing but this needs to stop before we are wearing our selvedge denim inside out.
I think it’s part of a conspiracy among the #menswear Tumblratti to confuse their innocent followers into acting a certain way so that they can preserve their unchallenged societal status as elite steezaholics—classic misdirection. Behind closed doors, they surely share stories about how droves of pissants follow their every which move. It’s tragic, really.
This post was inspired by all that noise the WSJ caused earlier this week when it decided to print an article about $300 denim. While a 100% markup at both the wholesale and retail levels seems ridiculous and causes consumers to question how a business can get away with such “robbery,” this question is misguided. Barring another industrial revolution, manufacturers and retailers will continue to sell items at absurd prices, and there’s nothing you can do about that because you’re only a customer. What you can do, however, is make better, more informed decisions. As Lawrence puts it, “buy better, buy less.”
As a corollary to the BBBL Theorem, I present to you the P/U Ratio, or price to use ratio. The theorem is simple—just divide the price of the article in question by the amount of times you expect to use that article over the course of ownership. Take, for example, a first year law student who wants to invest in, oh, I don’t know, a $300 pair of selvedge jeans. At first, homeboy shudders at the thought; Sallie Mae would not approve of such purchase. But let’s do the math. Let’s assume little lawyer-to-be will wear these jeans two to three times a week, or more simply about 100 times a year. After three years of law school, he will have worn those jeans 300 times. According to the P/U Ratio, this comes out to $1 every day he wears said jeans. Consider the fact that after three years those jeans will have some dope distress marks in the back pocket and throughout the legs—he’ll have another two years after law school to wear said jeans before they can be considered a depreciating asset.
Now, take for example, a made-to-measure tuxedo. Let’s say it retails for $2000. For those of us who are not classic pianists, you may wear this item three times during any three year period of your life. The P/U Ratio tells us that said tuxedo costs $666.66 every time you put that thing on during that three year period. Unless you have some serious fuck you money, this seems like a silly purchase.
Look, the theory is not perfect, I get that. And my examples are mainly illustrative. Nothing can take into account the many intangibles that go into buying clothing (e.g., every time you find yourself in a situation that requires a tuxedo you probably will want to look like you have the capacity to spend $666.66 each time you throw the thing on). But that doesn’t take away from the fact that it’s a useful tool in helping you grow from Big Willy to William. So, next time you have a choice between a pair of $300 jeans that you will get great use out of and a $100 pair of drop crotch pants that may take you 10 wears to become appalled with yourself, just remember that said jediwear is roughly 10x as much as said expensive pair of jeans each time you step into them over a three year period.